1. I have been here almost 2 months and I had yet to eat a Dutch pancake. How is that possible? What kind of fake Dutchy am I? A very bad one. I found a place in the Hague for breakfast this morning called Will's Pancake House and ordered a hot chocolate (soo much better in Europe) and a bacon/cheese pancake. I can't begin to describe the goodness in that pancake - the bacon and cheese are mixed in the batter and cooked in a very thin pancake, almost crepe like. It was impressive. Definitely a repeat and for any potential visitors, we will be going there. Lonely Planet also recommends a pancake boat out of Rotterdam (which I think J and K have done with their little ones) but I will probably wait until I have visitors come or a friend that wants to go. Kind of seems weird to call and book a table for 1 on a breakfast boat cruise.
2. After my massive success finding pancakes, I was feeling pretty good about my prospects for the day. I decided based on carrying LP with me that I should just pick a page and give it a shot. The page opened up to Arnhem, which is just past Utrecht near the German border. I went to the train station and got the ticket, thinking I would pick things to do there on the train. If nothing else, I would get 1.5 hours on the train to see a part of the country I haven't really seen.
3. First mistake happened at the train station. I just missed the Intercity yellow train to Utrecht for my connection, so I jumped on the next train headed to Utrecht, which happened to be a white Sprinter train. I know better than that....the Sprinters do not sprint anywhere. I can't believe I made such a rookie mistake. Anyways, I was on that train for who knows how long, stopping at every measley station between here and Utrecht. It must have made 15 stops...who knows, I lost count after 5. Problem was I couldn't get off and wait for the yellow train, because it didn't make stops in most of the towns. Well, it did in Gouda, but by that point I was so close to Utrecht it didn't matter.
4. I switched trains in Utrecht to Arnhem without a problem and I got a yellow train this time. So much better.
5. On that train, I made a decision to visit the "can't miss" Kroller-Muller Museum near Arnhem in Hoge Veluwe National Park. LP described the bus you get on and I figured with all the success I had last weekend going to somewhere different with LP, I could blindly trust that it would be right. Famous last words.
6. I hoped off the train at Arnhem, found the bus platform and proceeded to the Bus 2 as listed in LP. I just happened to check the bus destinations for bus 2 and found that it wasn't going to where LP said it should. Not even close. So I flagged down the nearest bus I could and asked which one was indeed the right bus. I was told that bus 21 took you to the back entrance and bus 105 took you to the front entrance. Thinking it didn't matter too much, I went to bus 21, where I met an American couple headed the same place, just as lost as I was. We confirmed together that the bus was indeed going to the park/museum and got on.
7. After arriving at the back entrance, I had a minor "score" moment when I learned they accepted my Museumcaart. Entrance to the museum was covered with my card, so I just paid park admission and for a map. Map was recommended by LP (called invaluable) and in hindsight I would have skipped it. Everything was marked in the park.
8. So here's what I read on the long bus over to the park. The back entrance was 10KM from the museum. There were one of 3 ways to get to the museum. Walk, take a free bike and make your way to the museum or bus. Given my success thus far with buses on this trip, I had serious doubts about the bus, which was confirmed by the lady at the desk after I had already paid for the park. Too far to turn back now.
9. So 10KM is about 6 miles. The museum was only open from 12-5 and it was already 1:30 because of all of my train debacles in Den Haag. I figured I would check out these free bikes and see if I could figure that out. If not, I would probably end up getting there and having maybe 30 minutes to check out the museum. This was going downhill and fast.
10. The free bikes were typical Dutch Amsterdam type bikes, each the same frame with only the seat adjustable up or down. I found a few that had the seat all the way down but I still couldn't tough the ground. It was really bad. I had a few under the breath curses and then started to feel a woe is me coming on. WHY CAN'T I GET 3-4 MORE INCHES TALLER? Is that too much to ask? I was so frustrated...the sweet couple I met on the bus tried to help me out, but there was no fixing the situation. So I sucked it up and started walking. The first 2KMs or so were really pretty:
Then it suddenly turned into Amber waves of grain as far as the eye can see. Like walking in a wheat field in Nebraska. Not fun.
At this point, I'm in full on pitty mode as I watch other people fly by me on a bike. I'm still trying to see if I can keep a fast enough pace to make it by 4 to give me some time at the museum, which LP said could take a half day to truly appreciate it. I'm also beginning to think about where LP can stick it. I'm dehydrated and I'm not having fun. Then all of a sudden, out of nowhere, a Dutch man comes galloping on a horse at full speed. Wearing a cowboy hat and full chaps and spurs. And he was maybe 25-30. He was so hot (or maybe I was just that tired of walking through fields of barley). I thought that possibly I was seeing my "man on a white horse" except it was a brown horse. Needless to say, he galloped past and I didn't have the courage to stop him. I was also afraid he might fall off the horse at such a quick stop. Chance lost, but maybe it was all just a mirage. I truly believe it happened, but no pictures to prove it.At this point, I start to see kids going by in the opposite direction with small free bikes. Why I didn't think to ask the front desk for a kids bike is beyond me. Well, not that far beyond. Pride had something to do with it. I also at this point begin to think about the ramifications of trying to steal a bike from an 8 year old and think better of it.
So about 6.5KMs into the walk, I'm completely over the museum. I can't wait to get home, prop up my feet and relax. Keep in mind, I just became a field hockey expert yesterday so I have muscles sore that are not used to being sore. I may or may not have taking an elevator down from my second story apartment that morning. I'm beat.
Out of nowhere, a bike materializes next to the wheat field. It's a kids bike and it appears to be abandoned. I looked long and hard for a kid, I promise. I didn't see any adults or kids, so I figured some kid got tired of riding himself and they put the kid in the child seat on an adult bike. I didn't even check the tires on the bike, I just got on it. First problem. The front handle bars were permanently adjusted to lean to the left, so in order to go straight, you had to steer to the right. No big deal after the first 200M or so. First 200M, different story. No falling, because the bike was so small, my feet were never really that far from the ground.
Once I got going, it wasn't too bad. The hills were tough, but I made it. It cut a lot ot time off the rest of the journey and I stopped to take this picture:
Beautiful, right? Not worth the 4KMs in the wheat, but pretty.
I got to the KM museum at 4, just as I was hoping. I put the savior bike with the others and as I was leaving, noticed that the back tire was completely flat. No wonder those hills had been so tough and no wonder it had been abandoned. I like to think I did the park a service by picking up the bike.
Then I saw the museum and caught up with my new American friends. Here's some shots from the art there, including Van Gogh:
The first is Van Gogh. The last two were modern art....I've never seen anything like it. It was a room of stuffed tigers with these arrows in them and in different positions and heights throughout the room. It was creepy and awesome at the same time. I'm not sure what it was supposed to mean, but pretty cool visually. The Van Goghs were nice, but I never found the Picasso or Monet's the museum advertised showing. I did find a snack bar where I could get a huge bottle of water...best 2.50 Euros I've spent. Overall, I liked the art, but not worth the 10KM bike ride/walk. This was what I would term KM Museum Death March 2012. I'll update at some point with Rick Steve's...he recommended this place too. See if his directions were any better.
I left the museum around 4:40 to make sure I could get a kids bike back. Good thing I did because there were only 2 kids bikes left and no adult bikes. This one was much better, but the seat was a tad too low. I made it work and took a picture for nostaglia purposes. This time, I decided to head to the front entrance (3KMs away) to try to catch this bus 105.
Look how cute it is.
My American friends met me at the bus stop just inside the park. I checked 9292ov.nl for the correct time and it stated that another bus was coming at 6PM. Not great, but at least one was coming. It got ridiculously cold the longer we sat there. At some point, a Dutch male model joined us (that's the only way to describe him, he was that good looking. Long blond hair in a pony tail with a little bit of scrub. He probably wasn't a model, but he should consider it). He was convinced as well that a bus was coming at 6. Well, 6:10 rolled around and no bus. 9292 is never wrong, so both he and I were concerned. The American couple made a move and we headed into the town of Otterlo to catch a different bus....another 20 minutes of walking. At this point, I can't feel my hands, nose or legs because of the cold. I'm just so ready to get to a bus.
The bus waiting area we found said the next bus was coming at 7PM, which was 30 minutes away. So we waited another 20 minutes and saw our bus that should have picked us up in the park zoom past around the roundabout to just off where we were standing. D (the husband of the American couple) chased it down and found out he was still going to Arnhem station, so we all piled onto that. We lost the Dutch model at this point, which was unfortunate (he headed in a different direction), but he was almost like an angel...translating to different bus drivers and people along the way, trying to find the right answer. Most of the time, he was dead wrong, but he sure looked good trying. And he was really nice.
After getting to the station, I was prepared to say goodbye to my 2 new friends as Utrecht and Amsterdam go in opposite directions. However, the first Amsterdam train on the board said it stopped in Utrecht as well, so we ran to that train to take it together. What we realized after getting on was we accidentally got on an ICE train, which is international. They checked our tickets and charged us an extra 4 euros for the comfort of the ICE train. I will say, it is a super nice train and well worth the extra 4 euros. It was really full, so we just grabbed a table in the bar area to stand around. M (the wife of the American couple) and I took this photo as we celebrated heading home after a long day:
I didn't get any of my laundry done, missed all of football at my local, and didn't open my work laptop once. I would say that's a successful day. I'm so glad I did it and that each mishap along the way played out perfectly to meet nice people who were just as lost as me and didn't really mind a tag along. What a great day.