If what you read so far seems like Budapest is just for the history nuts, I understand. However, this is where the weekend took a dramatic turn. Unfortunately there are no pictures to prove I did what I'm going to describe and there are probably thousands of people who do this every year, so it's most probably not that big of a deal, but I felt like I accomplished something huge.
After a so-so dinner, I wandered around some more, internally debating my next move. It was only about half past 6, so the night was still very young. I was high on life, enjoying the fact that I was only lost once during the entire day. When you know the travel gods are smiling at you, it's important to take advantage. So I flipped in my RS book to what I was the most apprehensive to try, but also the most curious about: the Thermal Baths.
I had packed a swimsuit into a small cloth backpack, just as I had done in Nice, with the thought that there was no way I was going to use it. I haven't been swimming since visiting S in Tampa. That was.....4 years ago? Maybe longer? And the focus of that trip wasn't on swimming, it was on sitting at the beach. So purposefully wearing a bathing suit for its intended use was probably college. That's the last time I can remember doing it.
I figured there was no harm in getting on the metro to the Baths that RS recommended....I could at least go look at the outside, which has fine architectural elements. That was how I convinced myself to get on the metro. The Szechenyi Baths are some of the most famous in all of Europe. It's definitely worth a look.
I got off the Metro, found the outside and liked the look of the building. RS says that it's open until 10 for swimming and he described what to do when you got in the building, how to pay for certain elements and what the dress code was. This is key and what had me the most nervous. Suppose this bath had naked hour? Who was to tell? The signs are all in Hungarian and in fact, this particular bath is recommended because it's mostly a local bath and not a touristy one. That could have disaster written all over it.
Anyways, I figured I got this far, I should at least find the lobby and read the prices. RS let me know that you can either rent a locker or a changing cabin, both of which you lock with an electronic bracelet to leave your stuff. I was nervous about that whole bit, because when I travel I never leave my passport, wallet, phone or glasses anywhere. They are like glue to me. Traveling solo means that there isn't anyone to watch your stuff while you find the restroom or go for a swim. It means having complete faith that your stuff is protected and the only way to ensure that is to have it on your person at all times. The place appeared safe and RS said you could get a locked safe if you wanted to, but that theft in a locked locker or cabin was rare.
I took a leap of faith and purchased an outside pool ticket and a changing cabin. I figured that the outside pool would not have nudey time and that the changing cabin was a necessary precaution. After purchasing, I slipped on my electronic band and headed for the turnstile, where the lady proceeded to direct me in the wrong direction to the cabins. That is when I learned that the locker rooms were definitely co-ed and was very glad I had chosen a changing cabin.
I found someone to direct me to the cabin area in the above ground floors, buzzed into a cabin and found it to be a basic room with a light and a heavy lock. I changed quickly into my suit, threw on the cover up sundress I brought (always be prepared!) and sandals. I left everything except my book and $20 in the cabin....figured it would be better for it to be stolen from inside the cabin than poolside.
I then went in search of a towel. That is the one thing I wish I would have figured out how to bring....the towels for rent had a $30 deposit on them! Plus $10 to rent. That's highway robbery, particularly when kids are scanning poolside for towels to collect deposits on. I ended up skipping the towel and air drying/using the dress to dry off.
The pool had three parts - one called "Fun", another called "Olympics" and another called "Relax". The water was cool. I ended up in the Fun pool (need to live up to my middle name). The Olympics pool was just for serious swimmers with caps, the Relax pool looked nice, but was mostly elderly people and the Fun pool had a nice mix of 20s and older people, all of whom were really just relaxing anyways. The crowd was all clothed (mostly) and the definition of bathing suit was a lot more stringent than Nice.
Thermal baths are just that - water from natural springs, some of which is naturally heated and others that are not. These pools were not. The other interesting thing is that it wasn't chlorinated at all which RS says is because the water is replaced constantly throughout the day, so the assumption is that you couldn't get sick. I tried not to think about it. The benefit is that without chlorine, the water is much more enjoyable.
I sat in the pool and lazed around for about 2 hours, turning into a perfect white raisin. It was really fun. I didn't think about anything, didn't worry about a thing. It was the most relaxed I've been since moving to Europe.
After that, I explored a bit around the grounds and then decided I wanted to catch a night time cruise of the Danube. Seriously, I am so proud of my success at the Baths....I wore a bathing suit, missed naked hour and relaxed. SCORE. I really wish I would have taken a picture, but I felt weird taking pictures in the baths. Just doesn't seem right.
Part 5 to come....
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