Savory Salzburg - Part 5

Sunday morning started with a bus trip to the center of town, followed by a second bus to the very end of the line in Untersberg for the Untersberg Cable Car which takes you up the Austrian Alps for views of Salzburg and the surrounding mountains.  (21 euros without the card, free with the card). This was the nature portion of the vacation:

 

 

This is where I know I lost some pictures and video that would really add to the blog.  First, the cable car was incredible.  It went literally from the valley floor all the way to the top of a very tall mountain.  I took a video of the entire 7 minute trip....jaw dropping.  At the bottom, it took you over green mountain streams, at the top, the cliffs felt so close you could touch them.  My stomach fell out of me 3 times when we switched cables.  At the top of the mountain, I went on a small 30 minute hike around the top of the Alps and froze to the bone, but got some amazing photos and felt like a mountain woman.  I also met a really nice American family (military in Germany) and had hot chocolate with them in the cafe.  Overall, definitely worth it. 

I took the bus back to the Hellbrunn palace which is also on that route.  More Christmas markets!  The shopping at this one was very good as well.  I got a really pretty bowl for my sister in law / brother and roasted nuts.  I also got more punch and went to the infamous gazebo again:

After that, it was back to the main town, where I stopped at Mirabell Palace (another SoM spot) to take a picture of the fountains frozen over:

Ice on the fountain!

I closed out the trip with a wonderful adventure to Augustine Bier Hall which is where they serve the original beer brewed by monks.  Essentially, you pay for the beer, grab a glass off the wall (full or half), wash it out in the fountain and hand it to a guy who fills it for you.  You can bring in your own food, so I brought in sausages and a pretzel from the Christmas markets and a book and enjoyed.

Not the healthiest lunch I've had, but definitely the most authentic :)

All told, I could have spent:  10 Euros on the castle, 21 euros on the cable car, and 5 euros for each day bus trips, which is 41 euros.  I paid 31 euros for the Salzburg card.  SCORE!

After that, I made a mad rush to get some last minute gifts and then rushed back to the hotel to catch a cab to the airport.  Flight back was very easy - flew through Vienna this time, so it was a nice quick trip.

Savory Salzburg - Part 4

After getting back from the tour, I rushed around Salzburg, looking for a Christmas concert.  I couldn't find one, which was unfortunate.  Everything was sold out and from what I could tell had been sold out for quite some time.  Note to self:  pre-book concerts online!

I grabbed dinner at a cafe in the old town and then wandered around the Christmas markets:

Taken in the morning so you can get an idea of what it looks like.

I did catch several inpromtu choirs singing Christmas songs in German, which was wonderful and trumpets playing at the top of the cathedral, town hall and residenz songs at each other while spotlighted above the Christmas markets.  wowoowoowow

After more Christmas punch and some snacking on kettle corn, roasted chestnuts, and some sort of pastry, I headed back to the bus for the hotel.

Savory Salzburg - Part 3

The afternoon consisted of a tour through Panoroma called "Advent at the Lake District".  The itinerary included stops in St Gilgen, Strobl and St. Wolfgang on Lake Wolfgang (I think collectively, this is called the Wolfgangse region).  The lake is fairly large and nestled into the mountains around Salzburg.  It feels like the region that Maria would have led the children in song and dance or perhaps Capt Von Trapp led his family over these mountains into Switzerland (unlikely, given Switzerland is very far from Salzburg, but that's the picture). 

The tour was about 25 people and included three languages (German, English and Spanish).  There was plenty of time, so three languages really wasn't an issue.  It was a very nice large tour bus and we weren't cramped at all, so overall, worth the money for the transportation.  I probably could have figured out public buses / trains, but the amount of time I would have lost doing it justifies the tour price.

The ride started like this:

Gorgeous clear skies, amazing views.  However, the higher we got into the mountains, the more ominous it began to look.  By the time we reached the lake, after passing fields of snow and trees covered in ice, this was the view:

The fog was like something out of Harry Potter.  It came out of nowhere and was thick.  By the time we reached the first village, I was pretty sure there was a lake, but that was only out of inference from what I remembered on the Sound of Music tour from the summer prior.  Not until we got on the boat for the last village did I know for sure there was a lake.  However, this did not dampen (get it?) the tour....in fact, it increased the atmosphere.  The lights twinkled brighter, the mulled wine and hot chocolate tasted better and the general cheeriness factor increased.

Christmas market selfie in Strobl, the first village we made it to.  This is mid-Christmas Orange punch, which I sampled at each village (at least once).  My gloves were quite sticky by the end of the tour.

Strobl had the best shopping.  The atmosphere was good, but not as good as St Gilgen at the end.  The shopping though....if I had known that the first stop was the best, I would have spent more on the first stop.  I bought a few Christmas gifts, including an assortment of cookie cutters that are equal parts good cookie cutters and hilarious.  Dad wasn't quite sure what to think of the lobster cookie cuttter (it's a Christmas Lobster!) or the sheep (it's a Christmas sheep!).  I also got a candle holder with a manger scene that's pretty.

After that market, it was onto the bus for St Wolfgang.  Wolfgang was a bit more packed and the shopping was more focused on food, which I'm ok with.  I tried some cheese at one of the stands and ended up getting some slices to snack on, along with more of the Christmas punch to make sure I didn't lose feeling in my hands. 

Wolfgang Christmas markets with a hint of fog.  I also visited a church in Wolfgang to get a real appreciation for the village (when in a Euro village, you must see the church).

The outside hides the inside glories - it's really quite misleading.  I only really went in for the hope of a bit of central heat (unlikely, but a girl can dream).

 

Pleasantly surprised by the ornate nature of the interior.  Still cold, but gorgeously gothic.  It fit the grey mood outside and set a somber celebratory mood for Christmas.

I know it's Catholic, but it feels like this was set up just for Christmas, a good mystery novel or the final scene to a thriller.

After Wolfgang, we took a boat to the final village, St Gilgen.  The boat ride was the most amazing part.  On the lake, St Wolfgang puts huge floating lanterns that have both Christmas lights and an open flame in them.  I'm not sure how to describe it (and I lost the one photo I had), but the combination of the lanterns and the fog and the grey lake made it feel like I was in the boat headed to Hogwarts (or away from it) during the Christmas holidays.  After that, the pictures just kept getting better and felt exactly how a Christmas card should feel:

I don't think I need to caption those.

After that, it was the St Gilgen market, where I sampled chocolate covered fruit, more punch and some sausage links.  Really great little village, that also included a life sized manger made of wood.

After that, it was back on the bus for Salzburg. 

Overall, I would highly recommend this tour if you find yourself in Salzburg in the Christmas season!

Savory Salzburg - Part 2

 

I got an early start on Saturday and first purchased a Salzburg Card.  The card gets you in almost all the sites and provides free bus for the duration.  I went with the 48 hour card and activated it when I got on the first bus to the Old Town.  My first stop in the Old Town was to book an afternoon tour to the Lake district for the Christmas markets there.  The Lake district is about 30 minutes outside of town.  The last time I was in Salzburg, we took the Sound of Music tour, which included parts of the Lake district, so I knew sort of what to expect.  I knew I wanted to see it in all of its Christmas glory and all the reviews were very positive. 

 

After booking the tour, I headed into the Old Town to see the Christmas markets as they were opening up.  The old town really is beautiful before it all gets hopping.  The quiet and the lack of commercial craziness in the 8-9AM range is serene, surrounded by mountains and churches with bells that will shake your insides to the core.  Its the one place in the world I can picture myself going back to school (in english).  It has a very university / intellectual feeling to it.  It also feels like the village in Beauty and the Beast....I felt like Belle, almost bursting into song about reading.  If you are a daydreamer, Salzburg before crowds is paradise.

 

A brief break to explain as well that I had one of those experiences on this trip that every traveler fears.  The dread of your camera going out on a once in a lifetime trip...we've all felt it.  I experienced it.  My face while standing on the bridge between the new town and old town and realising my camera was not going to work for the weekend:

 

 

My lens cover won't fully open, which means that about 25% of the frame is lens cover.  Very sad in general, but particularly sad when on the trip of a lifetime.  Thankfully, my company provided me with a brand new blackberry a few weeks before that has a decent camera on it...but lesson learned, I will always bring a back up from now on.  To add to the picture drama, I'm not entirely sure how it happened, but my blackberry deleted all of my pictures from this trip.  I think it's because I didn't turn off my phone on the flight back to Houston (rebel!), but I have no idea.  I stole all of these pictures from my mom and brother via what I had texted them on whatsapp.  The secret is out....I text a lot of pictures when I'm on holiday....I don't think there are many more I could get.  I may beg a few other people that I know I texted a picture, but I think the blog will be relatively complete with what I have from my mom and brother.   All in all, a lot of drama on the photography front, but alls well that ends well.

 

 

That's a shot looking away from the Old Town down the Salzach river.  It was a gorgeous day - cold and clear. 

 

 

Every city has their obligatory lock bridge, but for me, this one is the most romantic and gorgeous.  I lost a shot of this lit up at night for the holidays....love was definitely in the air.

 

After a bit of wandering, I took the funicular (cost: 10 euros without card, free with card) to the Hohensalzburg castle that overlooks the city.  The city was full of Christmas markets and the top of the castle was no exception.  I went up early to have a look around and then take the tour that goes to the lookout platform.  Last time, we took the tour of the castle, but the lookout platform was at least a 2 hour wait, so this was a new experience added to the trip.

 

 

Mountains in the not so far distance.  Seriously, who wouldn't want to live in this city?

The Christmas markets at the top of the castle were nice - small but lovely.  Did I mention it was extremely cold in Salzburg?  It was veryyy cold.  I'm getting better at the cold, but I really think I was missing an extra layer of skin (or clothing at least).  This forced me (gun to the head of course) to keep warm with hot chocolate or mulled wine from every 5th stand.  Rough life.

After the markets and tour of the castle, I headed back down to the old town and grabbed an early lunch at Wilder Mann which in my humble opinion has the best Austrian food in the country.  If it will stick to your ribs, they make it.  I started with some noodle soup, which almost made me cry, both because it's so good and also because it's exactly how my German aunt used to make it (tasted like wendish noodles):

I followed with wiener schnitzel, even though not in Vienna (Wien), mashed potatoes and cranberries.  Washed it all down with a pint of Stiegl, which is some great beer.  I love that restaurant.  I tried to eat there again that night, but it was shut for a private party.  There are about 14 things I want to try on that menu.

 

After that, I headed to my 1PM tour of the Lake District.....see the next post!

Savory Salzburg - Part 1

The last trip I took before coming home to H-town for the holidays was a bit of a surprise.  I'm being very careful about how much I book right now in advance due to work and other things, so most of my trips over the next few months will be last minute.  This was my first truly last minute trip since Edinburgh in March - I'm usually very concious about booking at least 2-3 months in advance.  I booked Salzburg less than 10 days in advance.  Yikes!

This also marks the second weekend that I have repeated a city since moving over here (other than London).  I've now repeated Prague and Salzburg, both of which were worth a second glance at Christmas time.  Completely different atmosphere.  I know I said I wouldn't do that until I'd run out of cities to see....but knowing how much I love Christmas in Europe, I figured it couldn't hurt to repeat cities I love to see.  These trips were completely different than the ones I took in May.

I flew out on Friday night, using Lufthansa and flying through Frankfurt on the way to Salzburg.  I used Lufthansa to continue to build my United status points to make sure I keep getting those economy plus seats for free.  It is key to my happiness to get economy plus for over the pond flights.  Those 5-6 inches make all the difference in the world.

I got very lucky heading to the airport - one of the guys who normally comes to the Hague from London was headed back to the airport at relatively the same time and agreed to go early for me, so I got a nice cab ride to the airport.  Worked out great as I took advantage of a free checked bag on Lufthansa so the bike wasn't an option.

The flight experience was a bit stressful.  I only had 40 minutes between flights in Frankfurt.  That airport is huge - getting from the plane to the next gate was an undertaking.  First, they don't park planes at the terminal - they bus you into the terminal from the tarmac.  Seriously long bus ride.  Then once in the terminal, it's a maze of gates.  I barely made the second flight.  But it worked out, I'm thinking Lufthansa knows you will make your second flight when selling you the ticket, but enjoys the thrill of raising your blood pressure slightly.

After landing at about 10PM in Salzburg, I had the best transport experience I've ever had from the airport.  Salzburg airport is about 20 miles outside of town and man was it cold.  I think there was a way to get a bus, but after feeling how cold it was, I quickly decided I was worth the cab fare.  I caught a cab and not only did I not get ripped off, the guy driving was driving for his father's company and finishing his MBA at the same time.  Very cute and great english.  This marked the 3rd time on the trip I spoke with strangers...met a nice Danish girl on the plane and a nice family from Manchester on the bus.  Look at miss social butterfly :)

Anyways, super hot cab driver could have given me an extended ride through the city, but being the responsible person he is, took me straight to the hotel.  I booked the same hotel I used last time because the bus picks up right outside to take you to the old town and it's about 1/3 of the cost of staying in the old town.  Totally worth it. 

I debated with some friends last night the value of hotels over hostels.  I haven't stayed in a hostel since coming over.  A London friend explained that unless you are 22 or a drifter, then hostels are not for you.  My Houston friend explained that I'm missing the thrill and risk of potential theft every night.  Not sure "missing" is the right word!  I can see some of the benefits of a hostel - easier to meet fellow solo travelers and have someone to hang out with if you desire.  However, those benefits far outweigh the negatives....plus, I'm not good at meeting new people.  It stresses me out....and the last thing I want to worry about when enjoying a new city is being stressed out about a new person.  Occassionally, it happens organically, which is fine, but I'm not seeking out situations to make a new best friend whilst on the road.  Plus, I really don't want my stuff stolen, I'm not 22, I'm not a drifter, and my company pays me to work.  All signs point to hotel (no matter how dumpy, hotel.)

I called it an early night to get an early start on the next day. 

Day Trippin to Valkenburg

Remember when I said I wasn't going to waste a weekend leading up to Christmas?  I've kept to that!

I didn't have a flight or train booked for this weekend, but really wanted to do the Christmas markets, so I caught an in-country train to Valkenburg, which is a 3 hour train ride from The Hague.  It's famous for its Christmas markets, which are in caves under the Valkenburg castle:

 Valkenburg Castle



There are 3 caves with markets - I made it to two of them.  The first was the municipal cave, which has Christmas displays on every corner.

And Christmas trees down every pathway

And wine bars in the corners (and vaguely close to Texas flag displays)

And wildlife displays

And booths lining the halls

 And general cheery atmosphere

And of course polar bears.

 

 What a job to decorate a cave for Christmas!

Mobilized santas everywhere

This is the second cave, the Velvet Cave, which also had relics of artwork in it from the period when the castle was active.  These relics were incorporated into the Christmas decorations...

 

 Very pretty

It wouldn't be Holland without selling some bulbs.  These were some crazy flowers by the looks of all the pictures.

 

 Santa displays everywhere

Creepy Santa sneaking into a house

I think if you are under the heart, you must kiss.

Frosty the Snowman


These markets were less about Christmas goodies and more about general gifts (I saw some "As Seen on TV" products).  But the atmosphere was great again.  I didn't buy anything on this trip, but still had a great time.  Stopped in a pub on the way back to the train station for schnitzel and Christmas beer.  Finished a book and watched the Christmas parade. 

I didn't make it in time, but want to see the sand sculptures next time.

O come, O come, Emmanuel
And ransom captive Israel
That mourns in lonely exile here
Until the Son of God appear
Rejoice! Rejoice! Emmanuel
Shall come to thee, O Israel.

Prague - Good Kings and Opera - Part 3

"Bring me flesh and bring me wine

Bring me pine logs hither

Thou and I will see him dine

When we bear him thither."

Page and monarch forth they went

Forth they went together

Through the rude wind's wild lament

And the bitter weather

 

With visions of Carmen in our heads:

 

 

(not our show, but this is what we saw. Our Carmen was less seductive from the back row)....

we got another early start, checked bags with hotel desk and then headed across the bridge for the Prague Castle (and of course to go to Mass).

Gorgeous Prague castle from the bridge.  Amazing morning

You know, just another Sunday morning stroll.

There is a plaque fixed to a statue on Charles Bridge, depicting a man being thrown off the bridge. The statue represents Saint John of Nepomuk, the court priest of King Wenceslas IV. Legend has it that he was killed by request of the king (not the good king revered in song), because he refused to tell the king about the queen's confession. The truth is that he invited a bishop to Prague who was the king's enemy. Touching the statue is a Prague ritual. It is supposed to bring good luck and to ensure that you return to Prague soon.
I don't usually do this kind of stuff, but it worked when I touched it in May, so I went with it.  We debated whether touching it with gloves would lessen the power, but I firmly believe I'll be back to Prague thanks to EasyJet anyways.

 An attempt at capturing the slow stroll along the bridge.  I'm clearly not the best fake walker.

After a monstrous climb up to the castle, we paused for pictures overlooking the old town.  Gorgeous city. 

"Sire, the night is darker now

And the wind blows stronger

Fails my heart, I know not how,

I can go no longer."

"Mark my footsteps, my good page

Tread thou in them boldly

Thou shalt find the winter's rage

Freeze thy blood less coldly."

 

 

St Vitus church, where the good king St. Wenceslas is buried (or at least it is thought that his remains are there).  We did the tour of the royal palace, the old nunnery chapel, Golden Lane and then stopped for hot chocolate and food on the terrace overlooking the city.  We ended it with wandering through St Vitus (for Mass of course).  As a colleague in Houston told me, going to church to look at the art work and glass counts.

Overlooking city again, nice and warm with hot chocolate in me.

 

 St Vitus Christmas tree

 

St Vitus Cathedral

Playing with camera in St Vitus

We then wandered and shopped some more and had a long lunch/dinner on the river.  I had some chicken kiev with Prague Ham (not sure if that's a thing, but they were selling it everywhere) and some mulled wine and beer.  After that it was time to head back to the hotel to catch cab, which we used Collin's suggestion on cab companies and were not ripped off (as far as we know).  Fantasized about getting on the wrong flight on "accident" to any number of cities.  And had some more wine/beer.

Number of times I saw snow during weekend:  3 times.
Number of times L denied I saw snow:  3 times.
Number of oohhhss/ahhhhs:  Countless.

In his master's steps he trod
Where the snow lay dinted
Heat was in the very sod
Which the Saint had printed
Therefore, Christian men, be sure
Wealth or rank possessing
Ye who now will bless the poor
Shall yourselves find blessing

Merry Christmas, ya'll!